AOBiome is researching a beneficial bacterium that is used to treat skin diseases such as acne and psoriasis.
Codex Beauty filed a patent describing a natural composition that, when applied to the skin, moisturizes and hydrates it while helping it retain moisture.
The rise of tech-based beauty solutions is another trend giving cosmetics giants new competition in the skincare market.
How are these technologies impacting the skincare industry? How far have the startups reached in commercializing such innovations?
To answer the above and many other questions, we dived deeper into the ongoing research by analyzing patent filings in the industry.
Our analysis shows that cosmetic startups are researching and offering their own unique beauty solutions. It seems the cosmetics giants like L’Oréal, P&G, Unilever, etc, have got some real competition.
For brands looking to benchmark or acquire emerging players, our beauty consulting practice provides structured startup and IP evaluation.
In this article, we have identified emerging cosmetic startups for co-creation and M&A and compared their IP stats, funding stage, and novel technologies.
1. Chemistry Rx
Chemistry Rx was founded in 2013 with a focus on rare, pediatric dermatological, and metabolic medications.
For a long time, they have been trying to solve various skin diseases, such as cutaneous infections and malignancies developed in organ transplant recipients due to long-term immunosuppressive therapy. Cutaneous infections are non-invasive infections of the skin, hair, or nails that cause pathologic changes in the host. Most commonly, these fungal infections are caused by dermatophytes, but non-dermatophyte fungi and yeast can also cause them. Whereas malignancies refer to the presence of cancerous cells that have the ability to spread to other sites in the body (metastasize) or to invade nearby (locally) and destroy tissues
Based on their research, Chemistry Rx filed a patent, US20200253994A1, describing a composition comprising up to about 10% (w/w) of a pyrimidine derivative and a base. This composition helps in treating the above-named diseases.
According to the company, this composition, when administered to the subject, delays the onset of symptoms of a medical condition or enhances, reduces, normalizes, or adjusts the growth, texture, appearance, color, sensation, or hydration of the intended tissue treatment area of the tissue surface in the subject.
| Geographic Spread of the Product/Services | Revenue | No. of patents | Any collaboration | Funding | Awards and Recognitions |
| United States | <$5 Million | 5 | – | – | – |
2. Krystal Biotech
In most epidermolysis bullosa patients (a group of rare medical conditions that result in easy blistering of the skin and mucous membranes), there are deficiencies of the Collagen alpha-1 (VII) chain protein and of the Lysyl hydroxylase 3 protein. These proteins are responsible for strengthening and supporting the connective tissues, such as skin, bone, tendons, and ligaments, throughout the body. In particular, type VII collagen plays an essential role in strengthening and stabilizing the skin.
So, to overcome this problem, Krystal Biotech, founded in 2015, came up with a composition comprising one or more polynucleotides encoding a Collagen alpha-1 (VII) chain polypeptide, a Lysyl hydroxylase 3 polypeptide, a Keratin type I cytoskeletal 17 polypeptides, and/or a chimeric polypeptide thereof.
The collagen alpha-1 (VII) chain polypeptide enhances, augments, and/or supplements anchoring fibril formation of a subject when the polypeptide is expressed in one or more target cells of the subject. Wherein, the anchoring fibrils are adhesive suprastructures that ensure the connection of the outermost skin layer (epidermal basement membrane) with the dermis layer (beneath the epidermis), i.e., dermal extracellular matrix.
Krystal Biotech also filed a patent application, US20200101123A1, for this solution.
However, the startup was involved in a conspiracy for this patent application, as a Pittsburgh biotech company, PeriphaGen, sued the former lab partner, Krystal Biotech Inc, in federal court in Pennsylvania, claiming that Krystal copied its gene therapy technology and used it to seek patents and investors. According to the complaint filed by PeriphaGen Inc., the company shared information about its technology, which uses a modified version of the Herpes Simplex 1 virus to deliver genetic material to patients with Krystal, in 2016, so that Krystal could explore potential treatments. But Krystal used that technology without notifying PeriphaGen” (Source)
| Geographic Spread of the Product/Services | Revenue | No. of patents | Any collaboration | Funding | Award and Recognition |
| United States | <$5 Million | 4 | Krystal Biotech and GeneDx Announce Collaboration to Provide No-charge Genetic Testing for Patients with Suspected Dystrophic Epidermolysis Bullosa (DEB) | Krystal Biotech has raised a total of $386M in funding over 5 rounds | -Krystal Biotech Receives Equity-Based Award from EB Research Partnership and EB Medical Research Foundation |
3. AOBiome
AOBiome, founded in 2013, is researching beneficial bacteria to treat skin diseases such as acne and psoriasis. Psoriasis is a skin disease that causes red, itchy, scaly patches, most commonly on the knees, elbows, trunk, and scalp. It is a common, long-term (chronic) disease with no cure. It tends to go through cycles, flaring for a few weeks or months, then subsiding for a while or going into remission.
For this, they have proposed spraying a composition containing Ammonia Oxidizing Bacteria (AOB) onto the subject’s skin. The composition will inhibit microbial growth on the subject’s skin and reduce the rate of inflammation caused by NO generation on the skin.
For this solution, AOBiome has filed a patent US20190010446A1.
The startup has announced the completion of a cosmetic study investigating the safety and effects of its novel AOB formulation in subjects with mild-to-moderate eczema (itchy inflammation of the skin). The results of the study demonstrate immediate and sustained reductions in itch with the use of a probiotic skin cream among subjects aged 2 to 65 years. (Source)
| Geographic Spread of the Product/Services | Revenue | No. of patents | Any collaboration | Funding | Award and Recognition |
| United States | $6 Million | 4 | AOBiome Partners with iCarbonX and Secures $30 Million Investment for Drug Development | AOBiome Partners with iCarbonX and Secures $30 Million Investment for Drug Development | – |
4. Evelo Biosciences
Evelo Biosciences, founded in 2014, is developing a composition to treat various diseases or disorders associated with a pathological immune response, such as an autoimmune disease, an allergic reaction, or an inflammatory disease in humans. The startup developed a bacterial composition comprising a Blautia strain (a species of anaerobic, gram-positive bacteria) with at least 90% genomic, 16S, or CRISPR sequence identity to the nucleotide sequence of Blautia Strain A (ATCC Deposit Number PTA-125346), wherein the pharmaceutical composition is enteric-coated.
To treat the above diseases, the bacterial composition, once administered to the subject, will either induce regulatory T cells or an anti-inflammatory response. Wherein T cells are part of the immune system, protect the body from infection, and may help fight cancer.
For this, Evelo Biosciences has filed a patent US10702561B2
Not only this, in September 2021, Evelo announced positive data from its Phase 2 clinical trial evaluating EDP1815 (an investigational oral biologic in development for the treatment of inflammatory diseases, including psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and COVID-19) versus placebo for the treatment of mild and moderate psoriasis. (Source)
| Geographic Spread of the Product/Services | Revenue | No. of patents | Any collaboration | Funding | Award and Recognition |
| United States | Evelo Biosciences’s estimated annual revenue is currently $16.6M per year | 3 | – | $281M | – |
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5. Codex Beauty
Skin is subjected to numerous extrinsic and intrinsic negative influences that affect its appearance, physical properties, and physiological functions. Extrinsic influences include ultraviolet radiation and environmental pollution, whereas Intrinsic influences include chronological aging, a person’s genetic makeup, and skin homogeneity. These factors result in the development of fine lines and wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of elasticity and firmness, which are often associated with a reduction in the skin’s moisture content.
To counteract these negative impacts, treatments such as topical and oral therapies, cosmetic procedures, and compositions have been developed. However, these treatments often suffer from drawbacks such as skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.
Codex Beauty’s patent application US10682306B1 talks about a natural composition comprising an infusion of Calendula officinalis extract; an infusion of Helichrysum italium extract; an infusion of Symphytum officinale extract; an infusion of Viola tricolor extract; and an infusion of at least one Mallow extract. When this composition is applied to the skin, it moisturizes and hydrates it and helps it retain this moisture, which benefits both its health and appearance.
In addition, Codex Beauty Labs has been granted two more U.S. patents related to its newest skincare line, Antü®. This product line helps combat signs of aging caused by a weakened skin barrier.
Recently, the startup has been granted a Seal of Recognition by the National Psoriasis Foundation for five of its skincare products. The Seal of Recognition demonstrates that these products are safe as part of a daily skincare routine for sensitive skin and/or individuals with psoriasis. The products are Bia Skin Superfood, Bia Exfoliating Wash, Bia Facial Oil, Antü Brightening Moisturizer, and Antü Brightening Serum. (Source)
| Geographic Spread of the Product/Services | Revenue | No. of patents | Any collaboration | Funding | Award and Recognition |
| United States | Codex Beauty Corporation has 24 total employees across all of its locations and generates $3.87 million in sales (USD) | 3 | – | Undisclosed | – |
The above startups are just the tip of the iceberg of the patent analysis that we have done in the skincare industry. A number of startups are working in this area, developing various skincare solutions, and collaborations with big giants are underway.
Based on an analysis of over 421 startups across 9 categories, we have listed all the problems in the cosmetic domain and the solutions provided by these startups in our dashboard.
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Authored By: Sukha Singh and Akshay Agarwal, Patent Analytics team.
