Higher the percentage of skincare actives in your lipstick formulation, greater the potential for your market success in 2026.
Lately, colour cosmetic brands are capitalizing on the rising demand for skincare-infused makeup with bold claims. Haus Labs by Lady Gaga has introduced a highlighter stick with 64% skincare ingredients. BiotechBeauty has pushed even further. Its blush-cum-lip colour contains over 83% skincare actives. These hybrid makeup products are blurring the line between colour and care.
Quickly responding to such trends is essential for makeup brands. However, launching entirely new product lines for each trend isn’t a feasible road. Manufacturers should analyse the product landscape, novel ingredient launches, and emerging technologies to integrate novel tech and ingredients into their existing products and deliver the trending results.
The challenge? They must reformulate using sustainable ingredients, eliminating widely used microplastics and cyclic silicones. Explore the disruptive technologies and ingredients from leading startups, universities, and suppliers that are helping global brands like L’Oréal and Estée Lauder stay ahead of makeup industry trends in 2026.
EU brands are replacing cyclic silicones (without losing slip, gloss, or wear)
Under EU Regulation 2024/1328, brands must replace cyclic silicones like D4, D5, and D6 in their formulations by 2027. Where D5 and D6 ensured slip, volatility, gloss, and long-lasting wear, this creates an innovation gap for formulators in lipsticks, foundations, primers, and emulsions.
The phase-out of cyclic silicones is driving the adoption of bio-based, biodegradable alternatives in color cosmetics. Some promising ingredients in markets include Galesan Ecogreen C®, Citropol® V6, ZymaLipid Complex, and Gransense® TC-55X/C.
However, the transition period may result in temporary product shortages as companies work to reformulate and reintroduce compliant versions. This disruption could affect brand loyalty and influence market dynamics.
P2 Science’s Citropol® V6 helps brands replace D5 while maintaining long-lasting effects, shine, and lightweight makeup feel
P2 Science’s Citropol® V6 is specifically designed to replace D5 in skincare, haircare, and color cosmetics. This sustainable volatile emollient blend is derived from upcycled forest-based terpenes. Its INCI is Bis-Polycitronellyl Succinate (and) Undecane (and) C13-14 Alkane.
Citropol® V6 delivers a cooling flash effect with a hydrated, velvety after-feel, closely matching cyclomethicone sensorials. Its high spreadability, silky slip, and refractive index of 1.42–1.44 enhance glide and light reflection in color cosmetics. The material is a clear, low-viscosity liquid (1.5–3.5 mPa·s at 25 °C) compatible with oils and alcohols, enabling versatile formulation. Inherently biodegradable and usable at levels up to 40%, it supports both performance and sustainability needs.
| Property | Cyclomethicone | Citropol® V6 |
| Polarity | Low | Medium |
| Refractive Index | 1.394 – 1.398 | 1.420 – 1.440 |
| Viscosity | 3.5 – 4.5 | 1.5 – 3.5 |
| APHA Color Value | < 50 | < 50 |
| Appearance | Transparent | Transparent |
| Spreadability | High | High |
| Volatility | 100% | 7% |
Award-winning Gransense® TC-55X/C by Grant Industries has applications across sunscreens, lipsticks, and shampoos
Grant Industries’ patented bio-based elastomer, Gransense® TC-55X/C, offers formulators a high-performance, eco-conscious alternative to traditional silicone elastomers. It delivers a soft-focus, luminous matte finish in colour cosmetics that enhances overall skin feel. Its thixotropic behavior and compatibility with polar ingredients enable formulators to achieve silicone-like textures.
It has a wide range of applications, including sunscreens (SPF 50), cream-to-powder foundations, lipsticks, shampoos, etc. This biodegradable elastomer was recognized as a finalist in the 2025 Innovation Zone Awards.
Visia 3D imaging tests showed that a formulation with only 20% Gransense® TC-55X/C delivered measurable reductions in wrinkle depth and volume. It also reduced surface shine within minutes. The formulation outperformed leading silicone benchmarks in both speed and overall effectiveness.
| Parameter | Technical / Performance Details |
|---|---|
| Material Type | Polyurethane elastomeric rubber composition derived from renewable bio-based feedstocks, incorporating polyester components |
| Particle Size | Micronized to 1–100 µm, with a preferred range of 1–60 µm |
| Carrier System | Formulated in plant-origin emollients |
| Viscosity & Sensory Effect | High viscosity delivers a cushion effect with medium volatility |
| Rheological Behavior | Non-Newtonian, thixotropic rheology enhances spreadability, stability, and ease of mixing |
| Appearance | Translucent gel, off-white to yellow |
| Viscosity Range | 40,000–120,000 cP |
| Shelf Life | Three years |
| Biodegradability | Fully biodegradable under OECD 301 B |
| Bio-Based Content | 100% bio-based carbon content (ASTM D6866-18) |
| Certifications | COSMOS certified |
| Formulation Compatibility | Compatible with anhydrous systems, waxes, O/W emulsions, W/O emulsions, and powders |
| INCI name | C9-12 ALKANE | CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE | CASTOR OIL/IPDI COPOLYMER | COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE | DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER |
| CAS Number | 73398-61-5;112-40-3;68955-90-8;95912-86-0;1197814-90-6 |
Keeping up with such advancements can help R&D teams identify market gaps and capitalize on the right makeup industry trends before competitors. Stay one step ahead with proactive competitive research on our AI-based research tool, Slate. Just ask, “What are the emerging trends and technologies in makeup, i.e., colour/color cosmetics?”
hat are the emerging trends and technologies in makeup, i.e., colour/color cosmetics?
There is global demand for makeup that doubles up as skincare
“The hybrid formulation approach of blending makeup and skin care to simplify routines with active ingredients is going to keep growing. We’re going to see more ‘skinification’, and SPF integration of products for your everyday use, for instance, lipsticks or SPF veil setting sprays.”
— Florence Roghe, NPD expert and Founder of Collateral Projects
In 2024, nearly every foundation launch advertised skincare benefits like hydrating and acne-fighting. Categories like serum foundations, tinted moisturizers with SPF, and priming moisturizers are booming. Brands are using traditional skincare ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and peptides in color cosmetics to offer dermatological benefits. Think a concealer that treats pimples, a brow gel that promotes hair growth, or aromatherapeutic makeup like lip balms with mood-boosting scents.
In early 2025, Haus Labs by Lady Gaga launched Bio-Radiant™ Glassy Highlighter Balm, formulated with 64% skincare ingredients to cater to this trend. It delivers a hydrating, ethereal, glass-like glow while nourishing the skin.
BiotechBeauty’s microbiome-friendly BiomeBlush® provides a pop of color with prebiotics & postbiotics
BiomeBlush® multistick is designed for sensitive and acne-prone skin. This versatile stick serves as both a blush and lip color, and can also function as a color corrector for under-eye darkness.
It features BiotechBeauty’s proprietary blend, BiomeBoost™ complex, which combines prebiotics, postbiotics, ceramides, vegan polypeptides, and fermentation-derived squalane. This blend strengthens the skin barrier, supports microbiome balance, and helps prevent irritation or breakouts.
The product contains over 83% skincare actives and is non-comedogenic. It is free from silicones, fragrances, PEGs, phthalates, and parabens. It is 100% vegan and cruelty-free.
BiotechBeauty was founded by Alanna Tran, a cosmetic chemist with years of experience at leading beauty brands such as Biossance and L’Oréal.
Kanebo’s smudge-free makeup base is inspired by the greasy protective layer of newborns
In September 2025, Kao Corporation launched a vernix-inspired cream duo i.e. KANEBO CREAM IN DAY II and KANEBO CREAM IN NIGHT II, under its global prestige brand, KANEBO.
The duo features Kanebo’s proprietary TAISHI™ Complex*1, inspired by vernix caseosa. This complex mimics the creamy white substance that protects newborn skin.
TAISHI™ Complex consists of C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, and Ceramide NG. Together, these components help retain moisture and strengthen skin protection.
The formulation also includes niacinamide and a licorice derivative to improve softness, radiance, and firmness. The cream offers SPF 30 and PA+++ for UV protection, and features a refreshing tea-floral scent for sensory appeal.
KANEBO CREAM IN DAY II also functions as a makeup base. It helps prevent smudging caused by dryness or excess oil. An AI analysis showed that makeup appeared less smudged even 8 hours after application when CREAM IN DAY II is applied before makeup.
The duo was strategically positioned as KANEBO’s global signature products, with a multi-country rollout across Asia. The Japanese beauty brand doubled down on promotional activities with a focus on the Thai market.
Brands are using biotechnology to produce sustainable colorants for ingredient-savvy consumers
Consumers are becoming increasingly ingredient-savvy, with 62% demanding sustainable and ethical alternatives in cosmetics. Beauty brands are using methods such as fermentation, engineered microorganisms, and plant cell culture to create high-performance actives in laboratories, rather than sourcing them from animals or environmentally sensitive plants.
A notable example is squalane, once derived from shark liver or olive oil. Now, biotech company Givaudan manufactures bio-squalane at scale through sugar fermentation, an ethical and scalable alternative to traditional methods.
Still, challenges remain. Scaling from lab or pilot batches to industrial production requires costly infrastructure, such as fermentation tanks and bioreactors, along with specialized expertise. Regulatory approval and safety testing add another layer, as biotech-derived actives require thorough toxicology validation. Consumer perception also plays a role. Terms like “genetically engineered yeast” cause customer hesitation. Brands can emphasize natural origins and sustainability in their messaging, as 59% consumers are influenced by “natural and organic” claims.
Debut’s animal-free red pigment is scalable and ensures a consistent supply chain
Carminic acid, a widely used red pigment, is traditionally produced by killing and extracting nearly 100,000 insects per kilogram of product. This has increasingly raised regulatory, allergen, ethical, and vegan-labeling concerns for cosmetic brands.
US-based Debut has addressed this challenge by developing a novel class of enzymes that enables the bioproduction of animal-free carmine. The pigment is produced using Debut’s proprietary Bio2Consumer™ platform, which combines patented microbial production systems with cell-free biomanufacturing to synthesize carminic acid directly from sugar.
Pilot-scale production has been successfully achieved, with demonstrated capacity of 10–20 kg per week at 300 L and feasibility proven at the 10,000 L scale. This approach delivers a 100-fold improvement in bioproduction efficiency compared to previous best-in-class methods. This enables a more consistent and resilient supply chain than conventional carmine sourcing.
Beyond supply advantages, the bio-carmine offers functional benefits, including antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, while eliminating beetle proteins that are known to cause skin irritation. It delivers a high-purity pigment (>95%) that precisely matches the shade, stability, and vibrancy of beetle-derived carmine, making it fully compatible with existing formulations.
The innovation is currently being validated through pilot-scale production in collaboration with the L’Oréal Groupe. This work is part of a broader agreement between L’Oréal and Debut to develop more than a dozen bio-identical ingredients, replacing conventionally sourced inputs across L’Oréal’s global skin care, hair care, color cosmetics, and fragrance portfolios.
Chromologics’ Sustainly.Red® is produced by a non-GMO fungus
Chromologics has patented a new way to turn Atrorosins (natural red dyes produced by fungi) into stable pigments called “lakes.” The process begins by priming a selected metal, such as aluminum, iron, copper, nickel, cobalt, or zinc. Then, AtrorosinE is coupled to the metal by slowly reducing the pH to a range of 3.5–4.5. This ensures optimal complexation.
Following complexation, the material is milled with stabilizing agents such as gum arabicum, OSA-modified waxy starches, vegetable oils, or water. This step reduces particle size to below 20 μm, ensuring high dispersibility.
The patent also specifies a molar ratio of AtrorosinE to metal between 1:1 and 1:3. This ratio is critical for achieving maximum tinctorial strength and chroma.
The technology is part of Chromologics’ fungal fermentation platform that uses non-GMO fungal strains to biosynthesize Atrorosins through Talaromyces atroroseus.
The pigment is animal-free, vegan, and environmentally sustainable. It provides vibrant and brilliant red hues for use in lipsticks, blushes, eyeshadows, foundations, and other color cosmetic products. It remains stable against light, pH variation, UV exposure, temperature changes and evenly distributed in water-based systems.
Chromologics has successfully scaled production of the first several hundred kilograms of its vegan food colorant, Natu.Red. The Danish biotech company raised €7 million from Novo Holdings, EIFO (the Export and Investment Fund of Denmark), Döhler Ventures, Collateral Good Ventures and Synergetic in November 2025. This takes the company’s total capital raised to almost €20 million.
Where is the industry headed?
A Mintel survey revealed that 72% of US male consumers aged 18-34 are now using makeup. Younger men are prioritizing “neutral or ‘skin-mimicking’ products, like lightweight concealers, sheer facial powders, and matte bronzers aimed to create no makeup looks. This growing interest in men’s makeup is driving the rise of skinimalism in the US.
While these trends are exciting, are they scalable?
Legal experts warn that regulatory scrutiny is shifting from food to cosmetics, with increased focus on microplastics, packaging materials, and full lifecycle compliance. This means R&D heads must do more than chase trends; they must evaluate each innovation for regulatory compliance, cost efficiency, and long-term sustainability before betting on it.
GreyB can help you assess which solutions are viable, scalable, and compliant. Fill out the form and talk to our expert.
